Tag Archives: Buenos Aires

San Telmo

San Telmo is Buenos Aires’s oldest neighbourhood. It was originally the domain of the wealthy but in 1871 a yellow fever epidemic caused them to flee to fresher, uncontaminated ground on the city’s outskirts. Their grand manors were quickly filled by large immigrant families and the area fell from favour.

San Telmo Market
San Telmo Market

Nowadays, San Telmo is one of the most charming and popular quarters of Buenos Aires.  The lovely old houses are still standing, many of them impeccably restored, while others remain shabbily chic. Quaint cafes and restaurants line the narrow streets.  Over the years many “Porteno” artists, musicians and performers have settled and spread their influence through San Telmo. They sketch paint and busk in the streets. There are numerous galleries and studios, as well as a recording company, four museums and a cinema university. Some of Buenos Aires best tango spots are also found here.

But San Telmo’s most interesting corners are to be found in its antique and second hand stores and in its colourful and crowded market – The market building itself is a beauty, with wrought-iron arches and high, vaulted wooden ceilings. It is crammed, literally, with trash and treasure. Everywhere there are glimpses of Buenos Aires’ grand, and not so grand, past lives. Jewellery, china, silverware, religious relics, furniture, toys and books jostle for space with family photographs, tablecloths, rosary beads, statues, holy pictures and suitcases plastered with labels from old Europe. They are all on sale for a song.

In the same building is a produce market as colourful, crowded and cheap as its neighbour.

On Sundays the whole of San Telmo becomes a giant market. The streets are closed to traffic and hundreds of vendors set up booths. Tourists and locals alike pour in from all parts of the city.

A short and fascinating walk from the centre of Buenos Aires , San Telmo is not to be missed.

La Recoleta

If Buenos Aires’ founding fathers spared nothing in building the new world’s most beautiful metropolis, neither did their progeny stint in building its most beautiful necropolis.

A calle in La Recoleta
A calle in La Recoleta

Cementario de la Recoleta, Buenos Aires first public cemetery, was the brainchild of Governor Martin Rodriguez and his minister Bernardino Rivadavia.  It was opened on November 17, 1822 and the first person interred there was Juan Benito, a freed slave.  Since then it has been the city’s preferred and most prestigious resting place.

Historically it’s fascinating – all the greatest and richest of Argentina rest in peace at Recoleta. Artistically, it’s amazing – some of the most elaborate and ostentatious mausoleums in the world are here at Recoleta.

Every day thousands of people – tourists, as well as locals paying their respects to deceased relatives pass through the Doric portico at Recoleta’s entrance. Only the elite, however, those with great fortunes and even greater names, find their final resting places here. The most visited grave is that of Evita, Argentina’s most famous female, who lies with the rest of her Duarte family.

It’s an interesting and restful day (or two), walking the peaceful, pristine and shady calle of Recoleta.

Floralis Generica

From the giant stone horseman in the Plaza San Martin to the towering monolith on the Avenida 9 de Julio, to the bold grinning mannequins at the windows of the conventillos of Caminito, Buenos Aires is a city rich in public art.

Floralis Generica
Floralis Generica

One of city’s, if not the world’s, most unusual and memorable sculptures is the Floralis Genérica, in the centre of the Plaza Naciones Unidas, just next to the Museo de Belles Artes,

Designed and funded entirely by architect Eduardo Catalano, it was installed in 2002, a year after the disastrous crash of 2001. The giant flower has 20metre high steel and aluminium petals which open at dawn and close at dusk. By night it glows with warm red lights. In the dark days of 2001, the sculpture might have served as a sign of hope, a promise that Argentina would blossom again, as it most certainly has.

Café Tortoni

Cafe Tortoni, at 825 Avenida de Mayo, is one of Buenos Aires oldest and most famous milongas, or tango clubs.

The tango show at Café Tortoni
The tango show at Café Tortoni

It was opened in 1858 by a Monsieur Tuon, a French immigrant, who named and modelled his Cafe Tortoni after a famous Fin de siecle coffeehouse on Boulevard des Italiens in Paris. He hoped that, just like the Parisian Café Tortoni, the new Buenos Aires establishment would attract the intelligentia, the literati and the elite of the artistic set. It did, particularly after the famous basement room La Pena, opened in 1926. Among the artists and writers who aired their ideas there were the poet Jorge Luis Borges and the artist Benito Quinquela Martin.

And of course the tango served as a backdrop and most probably an inspiration to their creativity.

The society of La Pena slowly disintegrated during the 1940s, but Café Tortoni had earned a reputation as a Buenos Aires landmark. Over the years famous figures from all over the world have visited, including Albert Einstein and Hillary Clinton.

Nowadays the basement of Cafe Tortoni is a theatre restaurant with up to four shows a day. And what a show! We sat spellbound as a quartet of dancers, to the music of a small orchestra, danced out the story of the tango, from its birth in the bordellos of La Boca to the brilliant work of art it is today.

Upstairs at street level, Cafe Tortoni is just as entertaining. It’s a great place to enjoy a drink, people watch and bask in an ambiance of old Beuenos Aires.

The tango

Beauty, passion and tragedy are the essentials of romance and Buenos Aires’ history and culture is steeped in it. There the stories of Evita and Che, the poetry of Jorge Luis Borges, the haunting music of the Andes and old Spain and a host of heart-rending songs.

The tango brings Via Florida to a standstill
The tango brings Via Florida to a standstill

Then there’s the tango!  Born in the dockland bordellos and shunned for many years by polite society, the tango, now, defines Buenos Aires.  It flourishes in the clubs and is the centrepiece of every great spectacle. It owns the streets and a group of dancers, dancing out their stories of love and loss and longing can bring whole corners of the city to a standstill.

Buenos Aires is as beautiful, as passionate, as tragic and as romantic as the tango.

 

 

Plaza Lavalle, Buenos Aires

Just a few blocks to the northwest of Buenos Aires’ busy, noisy Avenida 9 de Julio, lies the lovely Plaza Lavalle. We discovered it quite by chance as we followed a quiet and blissfully car-free passage off and away from the ceaseless roar and rush of the world’s widest avenue.

Plaza Lavalle
Plaza Lavalle

Plaza Lavalle centres on a small park, shaded by tall palms and leafy trees, with lawns edged by low wrought-iron fences, worn, dirt paths and statues planted in dry, overgrown gardens.

On one side of Plaza Lavalle stands the Palacio de Justicia and the imposing Tribunales, or federal courts. On another, ornate apartment buildings lend an air of old France. Narrow art nouveau and plain “modern” buildings sit side by side. On the northeast end of the Plaza is Argentina’s largest synagogue, Templo de la Congregacio Isrealito, its narrow facade adorned with the symbols of the faith.

Peaceful. pretty and with an air of faded grandeur, Plaza Lavalle is a glimpse of old Buenos Aires.

 

Avenida 9 de Julio, the world’s widest avenue

At 140 meters, the width of an entire city block, Avenida 9 de Julio is the world’s widest avenue. Its name commemorates the 9th of July, 1816, when  Argentina achieved independence.

Avenida 9 de Julio
Avenida 9 de Julio

Avenida 9Julio, then to be named Avohuma, was mooted as early as 1888, but as plans involved cutting a giant swathe through a large part of the city, residents and business people resisted vehemently and for a very long time.

Work on the project finally began in 1935 and continued for 45 years. The first piece opened  on July 9, 1937, the main section in the 1960s and the final stretch was completed in 1980.

Avenida 9 de Julio is an impressive road, by any standards.  With sixteen lanes of relentless traffic speeding in two directions, it’s a serious challenge, even to the most intrepid pedestrian. Fortunately median parks of surprisingly leafy trees and amazingly healthy lawn provide a kind of oasis in which to take a breather and gather the strength to complete a crossing.

Some of the city’s loveliest landmarks are here on Avenida 9 de Julio. Obelisco Ade Buenos Aires, located in the Plaza de la Republica was built in 1936, to commemorate the fourth centenary of the first Spanish settlement on the Rio de la Plata. Just as the Eiffel Tower symbolises Paris, so does this he 67 metre national historic monument represent the city of Buenos Aires.

Nearby stands the beautiful seven storey Teatro Colon, Argentina’s main opera  house. The present building, which opened in 1908 with a gala performance of Verdi’s Aida, stands on the site of the original theatre which was built 1857. Considered to be among the five best concert venues in the world, has seen performances by some of the world’s greatest stars, including Enrico Caruso, Arturo Toscanini and Luciano Pavarotti.

Other must-see landmarks on the Avenida 9 de Julio are the statue of Dan Quixote on the intersection of the Savenida de Mayo and the magnificent Estacion de la Constitucion.

Shoulder to shoulder with some rather ordinary modern monsters are some real art deco and art nouveau architectural gems, so it’s really worthwhile taking a stroll along this rather chaotic and loud thoroughfare and when it becomes unbearable, the side streets lead away into some really beautiful little squares, like the Plaza Lavalle. But that’s another story.

The Catedral Metropolitana

The Catedral Metropolitana, as the name suggests, is Buenos Aires’ main house of worship. It was completed in 1827 and stands on the site of the city’s first church in the Plaza de Mayo. As it is the final resting place of General Jose de San Martin, Argentina’s greatest hero, the Catedral is one the city’s most important landmarks. Outside, on the steps, an eternal flame burns in his memory.

An altar in the Catedral Metropolitana
An altar in the Catedral Metropolitana

Architecturally, the Catedral  is quite different from the spired, domed, turreted and belfried churches of its time, having instead an austere, columned, triangular facade, which resembles, both in its form and scale, the temples of ancient Rome and Greece. It exudes, too, the same air of power and might.  The only decorative features on the Catedral’s exterior are the bas reliefs depicting the stories of Jacob and Joseph, which strike a bold contrast on the building’s plain, perhaps somewhat  grim, face.

On the other hand, inside the Catedral, nothing is spared; murals and paintings crowd every  surface, every ledge and every edge is picked out in extravagant baroque detail. Even the statues are trussed up in heavy robes.  Yet, all this pales into insignificance beside the dazzling gold rococo altar which is, of course the centrepiece of the place.

Stepping out of this lavish, incense-scented place of soft, gold light, cool shadows and celestial scenes, looking out over the parched lawns of the Plaza de Mayo, where the banners of the Veteranos de Guerra, stir sluggishly in desultory puff of wind, I meet Priscilla, just five days old, in the arms of her mother, who has her hand out for a few pesos.  I want to run back inside and break a large chunk off that gilded altar and give it to her, with the blessing of the Pope, but I don’t. Perhaps it’s because I too am a child of this church and am bound by its ways, or perhaps it’s that I know that it’s merely fools’ gold. I open my purse and empty my pesos into her upturned palm. I take a photo of Priscilla. This is it.

Priscilla at 5 days
Priscilla at 5 days

La Plaza de Mayo, Buenos Aires

When Juan de Garay drew up the plans for Buenos Aires in 1580, he placed the large Plaza de Fuerte or Square of the Fortress at its centre. Following the dictates of Spanish law, it comprised a church, a public meeting place, a marketplace and civic buildings. It was the hub and the heart of the new city.

A peaceful corner of Plaza de Mayo
A peaceful corner of Plaza de Mayo

The Plaza’s name has changed a number of times over the centuries. Plaza de Fuerte gave way to Plaza del Mercado, then in 1807 it became Plaza de la Victoria to mark the country’s victory over the invading British and finally, when Argentina shook off  Spanish  rule on May 25, 1810, it became Plaza de Mayo.

Despite the changes in name and the inevitable changes in the shape of city, Plaza de Mayo is still very much the heart of Buenos Aires. It lies at the meeting point of two major roads – Roque Saenz Pena and Avenida Rivadavia. It is home to some of Argentina’s most famous and significant buildings such as the legendary Casa Roseda, or Pink House.

More importantly, Plaza de Mayo has been and still is, the scene of Argentina’s most significant historical and political moments.  Over the centuries crowds have rallied here for both the highs and the lows of the country’s chequered history.

Plaza de Mayo is a focal point for protests. They start and or finish here. When I passed through two years ago, the War Veteran were encamped in one corner, They looked as if they hade been there for a long time and they looked as if they were there for the long haul. Every Thursday at 3.30 pm a group of mothers turn up to protest ad mourn the disappearance of their children during the Military Regime of 1976 to 1983. They call themselves Los Madres de la Plaza de Mayo.

La Casa Rosada

La Casa Rosada
La Casa Rosada

On the eastern edge of the Plaza de Mayo, looking down across the smart new architecture of the Puerto Madero, stands one of Buenos Aires most beautiful and famous buildings – La Casa Rosada or the Pink House.

La casa Rosada was built during the 1868 to 1874 presidency of Domingo F. Sarmiento, on the site of the 18th century Fuerte Viejo, the original Fort of Buenos Aires, overlooking the Rio Plata. But after almost a century and a half of land reclamation and building La Casa Rosado stands more than a kilometre from the sea. Its striking pink colour, it is said, was Domingo Sarmiento’s attempt to bring peace to Argentina by blending the red of the Federalists with the white of their rivals, the Unitarists.

From the balconies that face the Plaza de Mayo, many famous Argentine leaders, including Juan and Eva Peron, have preached to their public. It was also from the balcony of La Casa Rosada, that Madonna, playing Eva Peron in the film Evita, delivered her unforgettable rendition of Don’t Cry For Me Argentina.

Like Argentina, La Casa Rosada has lived through hard times. In 1955, at the time of the Revolucion Libertadora which ousted Juan Peron, it came under fire from the navy. During the Military Regime of 1976 to 1983, it was sinister, secret place, out of bounds to all but government officials.

These days, la Casa Rosada is open to the public, but bookings and photo ID are essential.

At the Museo de la Casa Rosada, relics from the old fort are on show, along with memorabilia from past presidencies, including the Peron era