When you’ve explored Te Papa, tramped out the walkways, south, east and city to sea, descended into Middle Earth, soaked up the uber cool atmosphere of Cuba Street and the Aro Valley, studied the seals at Red Rocks and taken in the view of the Kaikouras from the south coast, ridden the cable car, shopped the fabulous NZ fashion houses down on Customhouse Quay, taken a taste adventure at Fusion Virtuoso in Manners Mall, strolled along Oriental Bay, eating a Kapiti ice-cream – in short, when you’ve worn yourself out trying to do everything there is to do in Wellington, head down to the waterfront.
Collapse into a bean-bag on the lawn outside the bar behind the old St John’s Ambulance HQ. It’s name? I can’t say and haven’t time right now to google it – but you can’t miss it. Order up a beer and people watch.
No spare bean bags. Don’t worry! Head around the corner to the big brick building – there’s an even bigger bar here, with indoor and outdoor spaces. If there’s no room at this inn, then pinch a chair and with that and your tipple of choice in hand, park yourself at the land’s edge. Start your own party and or just enjoy the view.
The view down here is fascinating. There are tugboats at anchor, birds wheeling, people walking and, despite all the signs prohibiting it, youths doing death-defying dives from the wharf.
This cavalier of behaviour, which flies in the face of rules, weather and convention yet emerges, wet, shivering but grinning in the teeth of discomfort, is a fitting last word on Wellington for me. Against impossible climatic and geographical odds, it not only survives but thrives, with a flourish!